Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

"123.bam" <"123.bam "@hotmail.com> wrote in message
=== snip ===
> > >Not even close.If the timing belt breaks the motor will either spin VERY
> > >freely if a non-interference motor,or not spin at all when the piston
> > >strikes an open valve.
>
> not a flame but it very well could be a timing belt as Ive had this very
> problem on startup, and the starter
> had no problem bending the valves on its next fatal startup.
> I base my guess on the owners description " It didn't seem like the *normal*
> cranking sound, it seemed more *laborious* for a lack of better term."
>
> Being a 1991 vehichle it could be the float in the carb sunk and flooded the
> engine. (someone else eluded to this issue)
>
> however since the owner hasnt responded to these probabilities we can only
> speculate.

I didn't respond beacuse I haven't gotten a chance to look at it yet.
Have been buried under other stuff. BTW, it's a fuel injection (4 dr
LX, auto), not a carb. Sorry, should have mentioned it earlier.

TIA

Raj

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

"123.bam" <"123.bam "@hotmail.com> wrote in message
=== snip ===
> > >Not even close.If the timing belt breaks the motor will either spin VERY
> > >freely if a non-interference motor,or not spin at all when the piston
> > >strikes an open valve.
>
> not a flame but it very well could be a timing belt as Ive had this very
> problem on startup, and the starter
> had no problem bending the valves on its next fatal startup.
> I base my guess on the owners description " It didn't seem like the *normal*
> cranking sound, it seemed more *laborious* for a lack of better term."
>
> Being a 1991 vehichle it could be the float in the carb sunk and flooded the
> engine. (someone else eluded to this issue)
>
> however since the owner hasnt responded to these probabilities we can only
> speculate.

I didn't respond beacuse I haven't gotten a chance to look at it yet.
Have been buried under other stuff. BTW, it's a fuel injection (4 dr
LX, auto), not a carb. Sorry, should have mentioned it earlier.

TIA

Raj

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

"123.bam" <"123.bam "@hotmail.com> wrote in message
=== snip ===
> > >Not even close.If the timing belt breaks the motor will either spin VERY
> > >freely if a non-interference motor,or not spin at all when the piston
> > >strikes an open valve.
>
> not a flame but it very well could be a timing belt as Ive had this very
> problem on startup, and the starter
> had no problem bending the valves on its next fatal startup.
> I base my guess on the owners description " It didn't seem like the *normal*
> cranking sound, it seemed more *laborious* for a lack of better term."
>
> Being a 1991 vehichle it could be the float in the carb sunk and flooded the
> engine. (someone else eluded to this issue)
>
> however since the owner hasnt responded to these probabilities we can only
> speculate.

I didn't respond beacuse I haven't gotten a chance to look at it yet.
Have been buried under other stuff. BTW, it's a fuel injection (4 dr
LX, auto), not a carb. Sorry, should have mentioned it earlier.

TIA

Raj

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

"123.bam" <"123.bam "@hotmail.com> wrote in message
=== snip ===
> > >Not even close.If the timing belt breaks the motor will either spin VERY
> > >freely if a non-interference motor,or not spin at all when the piston
> > >strikes an open valve.
>
> not a flame but it very well could be a timing belt as Ive had this very
> problem on startup, and the starter
> had no problem bending the valves on its next fatal startup.
> I base my guess on the owners description " It didn't seem like the *normal*
> cranking sound, it seemed more *laborious* for a lack of better term."
>
> Being a 1991 vehichle it could be the float in the carb sunk and flooded the
> engine. (someone else eluded to this issue)
>
> however since the owner hasnt responded to these probabilities we can only
> speculate.

I didn't respond beacuse I haven't gotten a chance to look at it yet.
Have been buried under other stuff. BTW, it's a fuel injection (4 dr
LX, auto), not a carb. Sorry, should have mentioned it earlier.

TIA

Raj

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

Folks,
I just couldn't find any time to work on the problem. First it was
the holidays, then we went on a vacation, etc. etc. Anyway, I had the
car sent to a local mechanic and he diagnosed it with a dead coil. I
had the coil replaced and additionally had him replace the 3 - 3.5 yr
old battery and and 60K old sparks. The car is working perfectly now.

Thanks to all for the help.

Raj

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

Folks,
I just couldn't find any time to work on the problem. First it was
the holidays, then we went on a vacation, etc. etc. Anyway, I had the
car sent to a local mechanic and he diagnosed it with a dead coil. I
had the coil replaced and additionally had him replace the 3 - 3.5 yr
old battery and and 60K old sparks. The car is working perfectly now.

Thanks to all for the help.

Raj

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

Folks,
I just couldn't find any time to work on the problem. First it was
the holidays, then we went on a vacation, etc. etc. Anyway, I had the
car sent to a local mechanic and he diagnosed it with a dead coil. I
had the coil replaced and additionally had him replace the 3 - 3.5 yr
old battery and and 60K old sparks. The car is working perfectly now.

Thanks to all for the help.

Raj

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

Folks,
I just couldn't find any time to work on the problem. First it was
the holidays, then we went on a vacation, etc. etc. Anyway, I had the
car sent to a local mechanic and he diagnosed it with a dead coil. I
had the coil replaced and additionally had him replace the 3 - 3.5 yr
old battery and and 60K old sparks. The car is working perfectly now.

Thanks to all for the help.

Raj

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
ment like a car, eventual failure.

chuck

NomoreRGS wrote:

> I don't think you can get the relay out of it's housing while still
> mounted. It's much easier to remove it and the housing than trying to
> get it out of the housing in the car.
>
> Heres a link to a great site to fix a main relay. It helped me
> tremendously when I had the problem with my '91 Accord.
> The cracked soldier joint was very hard to spot. Even when
> knowing exactly what to look for. Mine was just a little mark on
> one post (didn't even look like a crack). When un-soldiering this
> joint the soldier melted differently than the other joints.
>
> http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/elec...main-relay.htm
>

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
ment like a car, eventual failure.

chuck

NomoreRGS wrote:

> I don't think you can get the relay out of it's housing while still
> mounted. It's much easier to remove it and the housing than trying to
> get it out of the housing in the car.
>
> Heres a link to a great site to fix a main relay. It helped me
> tremendously when I had the problem with my '91 Accord.
> The cracked soldier joint was very hard to spot. Even when
> knowing exactly what to look for. Mine was just a little mark on
> one post (didn't even look like a crack). When un-soldiering this
> joint the soldier melted differently than the other joints.
>
> http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/elec...main-relay.htm
>

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
ment like a car, eventual failure.

chuck

NomoreRGS wrote:

> I don't think you can get the relay out of it's housing while still
> mounted. It's much easier to remove it and the housing than trying to
> get it out of the housing in the car.
>
> Heres a link to a great site to fix a main relay. It helped me
> tremendously when I had the problem with my '91 Accord.
> The cracked soldier joint was very hard to spot. Even when
> knowing exactly what to look for. Mine was just a little mark on
> one post (didn't even look like a crack). When un-soldiering this
> joint the soldier melted differently than the other joints.
>
> http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/elec...main-relay.htm
>

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
ment like a car, eventual failure.

chuck

NomoreRGS wrote:

> I don't think you can get the relay out of it's housing while still
> mounted. It's much easier to remove it and the housing than trying to
> get it out of the housing in the car.
>
> Heres a link to a great site to fix a main relay. It helped me
> tremendously when I had the problem with my '91 Accord.
> The cracked soldier joint was very hard to spot. Even when
> knowing exactly what to look for. Mine was just a little mark on
> one post (didn't even look like a crack). When un-soldiering this
> joint the soldier melted differently than the other joints.
>
> http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/elec...main-relay.htm
>

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

> What's
> going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
> design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
> printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
> hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
> ment like a car, eventual failure.

Spot on. Solder is a very poor mechanical fastener. If larger
components, like the relays inside the "main relay" are mounted only by
the solder joints it is very likely to cause problems. If you have
vibrations or any kind of mechanical stress on a solder joint the solder
will eventually fatigue and crack.

This is also why you should NOT tin the ends of wires that go in screw
terminals. You tighten up the screw, and eventually that tight screw
will cause the solder to fatigue and the wire to become loose. Many of
the UL type agencies will not approve products with tinned ends in screw
terminals.

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

> What's
> going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
> design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
> printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
> hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
> ment like a car, eventual failure.

Spot on. Solder is a very poor mechanical fastener. If larger
components, like the relays inside the "main relay" are mounted only by
the solder joints it is very likely to cause problems. If you have
vibrations or any kind of mechanical stress on a solder joint the solder
will eventually fatigue and crack.

This is also why you should NOT tin the ends of wires that go in screw
terminals. You tighten up the screw, and eventually that tight screw
will cause the solder to fatigue and the wire to become loose. Many of
the UL type agencies will not approve products with tinned ends in screw
terminals.

Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
 

> What's
> going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
> design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
> printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
> hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
> ment like a car, eventual failure.

Spot on. Solder is a very poor mechanical fastener. If larger
components, like the relays inside the "main relay" are mounted only by
the solder joints it is very likely to cause problems. If you have
vibrations or any kind of mechanical stress on a solder joint the solder
will eventually fatigue and crack.

This is also why you should NOT tin the ends of wires that go in screw
terminals. You tighten up the screw, and eventually that tight screw
will cause the solder to fatigue and the wire to become loose. Many of
the UL type agencies will not approve products with tinned ends in screw
terminals.